Suzy Beggin, Shepherdess

                                                                                                                                            Suzy@SuzyBeggin.com

 

 

 

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Other Fun Links:

 

1858 Historic Ball

A historic dance in celebration of the 1858 Lincoln-Douglas Debate to take place on August 30, 2008.

 

Suzy's Doozies & Suzy's Musings

My book and weekly articles.

 

Galena Historic Dance Society

A fun group to practice and learn 19th century dance.  We meet on the fourth Tuesday of each month at the ARC in Galena.  All are welcome!

 

Stephenson County Fiber Art Fair

A marvelous celebration of fiber.

 

Freeport Cruise Night Nothing to do with sheep or wool, but it's an event I volunteer at and have a lot of fun with.  J

 

 

 

Text Box: Patterns

Text Box: I don't make or sell patterns, but I am happy to share some of my favorite historic pattern sources.        In creating an authentic piece, primary source patterns are always preferred and there is nothing more exciting than successfully translating a period pattern and reproducing an item exactly.  However, most original knitting patterns are so vague that even experienced modern knitters have trouble translating them.  So while I prefer primary source patterns, I'm not too proud to admit that I use secondary source patterns when I feel the pattern has been well researched and reproduced authentically.    The comments below list primary source patterns in red (Primary Source!).  Secondary sources are those that meet my personal standards.  In the case of pattern books and collections, I have not tried every pattern listed but am assuming that if the ones I've tried are authentic, the rest probably are too.     For pattern books, I've listed each individual pattern in each collection.  If you're looking for a specific item use "Find" or "Search" on your browser to look for a key word, for example "socks" or "shawl."     After reviewing my favorites, please let me know your favorite historic patterns!      18th Century and Revolutionary War Tully, Mark,  The Packet III: Being Yet Another Collection of Patterns, Articles and Essays of Particular Interest to the 18th-Century Re-Enactor.  Ballindalloch Press.  www.ballincalloch-press.com     Although there are three volumes, I've only used the third, which contains a pattern for knit mittens.  The pattern is a reconstructed pattern designed from the study of an original pair of mittens.  The mittens are knit in the round (four needles), and the directions are clear and easy for any knitter experienced with knitting in the round to understand.      Using my medium yarn and #5 needles to knit six stitches per inch, my finished mitten was 10 1/2 inches long (that's real long - but they are supposed to extend beyond the wrist), 5 inches from thumb slit to the top, with a 3 inch thumb.  The finished weight of my pair is 2.6 ounces, about 150 yards.  It's a good size for a man.  I reduce the pattern to make the mittens fit ladies and children.    1830s ----, The Workwoman’s Guide By A Lady, 1838.  Primary Source!  Reprints are available (I found my copy on Amazon.com).       A good "everyday" guide of practical patterns, not the latest high fashions.  The chapter on knitting includes a variety of stitches, plus patterns for stockings and socks, garters, night boots, knee cap, gloves, mitts, muffatees, scarf, comforter, shawl, purse, zephyrine, baby caps, night cap, blankets, doyleys (doily), petticoat, child's knit stays, bosom friend, and braces (suspenders).     This is one of my favorite sources, however, the authoress apparently assumes you have been knitting your entire life and have your mother, grandmother, and eight sisters sitting beside you in your log cabin to help you out!  As such, the patterns are very vague and no needle sizes are given, so some creativity is needed.  Warning: Some patterns may bring beginning knitters to tears!   1840s Lambert, Miss, The Handbook of Needlework, Decorative and Ornamental, Including Crochet, Knitting, and Netting, 1846.  Primary Source!  Republished by Piper Publishing in 2003.       When Did Crochet Begin?      Miss Lambert notes in her 1846 Handbook that the "new" art of crochet "did not attract popular attention until within the last seven years," which would be 1839.  The 1838 Workwoman's Guide does not mention crochet at all, although as a practical guide it is unlikely the Workwoman's Guide would have mentioned a hooty-snooty new French fashion even if the authoress had been familiar with it.        It is my opinion that crochet can be worked by those portraying fashionable young women after 1840 or so.  Older women, or women portraying working class women of any age, should wait until the 1850s, when lace collars (knit and crocheted both) became fashionable, indicating that more women, not just the young and fashionable, were crocheting.      As the title states, this book is more decorative than practical.  The patterns are fairly clear, and the terms used are well defined.  Needle sizes are stated, although Miss Lambert uses the old European method (small needles with big numbers, big needles with small numbers - the opposite of today's American sizes).  However, there is a drawing of a needle chart which will help you determine what size modern needle you need.  Make a xerox copy of that page, and then stick your needles through it to see what size she calls for.          Patterns in the knitting chapter include a variety of stitches plus a night sock, riding jacket, knitted quilts, shawls, fringes, edgings, insertions, borders, opera cap, night cap, lady's traveling cap, baby's hood, habit-shirt, muff, muffatees, cuffs, sofa cushion, scarf, pillows, comforter, purse, baby's sock and pen-wiper.     The crochet chapter primarily includes design patterns rather than instruction for specific projects.  Crochet patterns include table covers, slippers, purses, a Greek cap, pen-wiper, shawl, collars, insertions and edgings.   1850's, 1860's and Civil War Once Upon a Pattern: www.onceuponapattern.com  (This site has had a "Temporarily Closed" message for quite some time, and I'm sorry to say they may be out of business).     A catalog of knitting and crochet patterns translated from original patterns.  Patterns date from the 1850s to the early 1900s, with most of the patterns in the 1850s and early 1860s.  Each pattern includes the date and source of the original pattern.        Knit patterns for the Civil War era include a quilt (1850), ladies' mitt (1855), opera hoods (1859 & 1862), sortie cap (1859), bed socks (1860), sontag (1860), solder's mitten (1861), knit braces (1861), soldier / civilian sock (1863), underpetticoat (1864) and baby bib (1864).       Crochet patterns for the Civil War era include a fascinator bonnet (1850), wool scarf (1857), hair net (1857), neck ribbon (1858), fringe (1858), ladies' neck tie (1859), purse (1861), shawl (1862), tidy (1862), and baby bootie (1864).     I've purchased a number of these patterns.  They read very clearly and seem to be well documented, but I haven't gotten around to working any of them yet.  I'll post my comments on specific patterns here once I work a few, so be sure to check back.        Leisch, Juanita.  Who Wore What: Women's Wear 1861 - 1865, 1995.  Thomas Publications.      It's not a pattern book, but I refer to it as The Bible and think everyone studying women's Civil War clothing should own this book.  The book is the result of a photographic survey where the authoress studied original photographs to note the length of skirt, shape of collar, corset vs. none, hair, cuffs, etc., and then devotes an entire page (with pictures) to every minor little detail.  Truly an awesome book.     I include this book in my list because there is a page devoted to knitted materials (p 68) and anyone with minimal skills can easily copy the patterned shawls shown on that page.     Beggin, Suzy.  "Civil War Civilian Socks: Be Authentic - All the Way Down to Your Toes."  Published in Back to Basics II: Fashions for Men and Children during the 1860s, a special edition to The Citizen's Companion.  2007.  Page 38 - 39.  Published by Lakeway Publishing Co.       A top-to-bottom detailed look at how 19th century men's socks differ from modern socks.  The article does not contain any patterns, but is a good reference to read before you knit a pair of civilian socks.      1890s and Turn of the Century Butterick Publishing Co., The Art of Knitting, 1892.  Primary Source!  Republished by Pieper Publishing in 2003.      I'm embarrassed to say I haven't had time to take more than a quick glance, but I bought it because I read an excellent review in the Midwest Outdoor Museum Coordinating Council's newsletter.  I'll post my own review once I have time to take a good look.      So many patterns, so little time . . .     World War II Red Cross Museum website: http://www.redcross.org/museum/exhibits/knits.asp Primary Source!  (Note that this website address has changed. If you tried it before and got the dreaded "This Page Cannot Be Found" message, please try it again)     The Red Cross Museum website has free copies of official Red Cross knitting patterns for socks, gloves, coat sweater, "V" neck sweater, "mufflers for servicemen," Iceland sweater and "watch cap for Navymen," plus a child's sweater and afghan for war refugees.  Excellent, easy to use patterns that are scanned copies of the original.  All are WWII era, and most have the pattern's exact date printed on the pattern.     I've used the sock pattern.  Using my medium yarn and knitting six stitches per inch with #5 needles, my socks were 14 1/2 inches from the cuff to the heal, and 12 inches from toe to heal.  The finished weight was exactly 8 ounces for the pair.  The pattern calls for ribbing the back of the heal, presumably to extend the life of the sock and prevent blisters.  The pattern also calls for starting with two strands of yarn for the first few rows, which I found difficult and bulky, and couldn't see any advantage to it.  But the pattern said to do it, so I did!